But one savvy homeowner has proved that it doesn’t have to be – and the results can look just as good when… THERE'S no denying that renovating any room in your house can be costly. A reduction in gloss may be experienced in time which can & should be restored with floor finish.THERE’S no denying that renovating any room in your house can be costly.Protect the floor from constant direct exposure to sunlight &/or heat.Proper floor protection devices must be used with furniture & exercise care when replacing & removing furniture.The use of abrasive cleaners &/or abrasive pads is NOT recommended.Occasional damp mopping with warm water.Maintenance of your new floor: To obtain the best performance from your new floor & to avoid permanent damage, we recommend the following: Sweep or vacuum the floor depending upon traffic & soiling conditions Cut the tile & try fitting it into place before removing the paper backing.ĩ. Fitting around irregular objects: To fit tile around door jambs, pipes or other irregular objects, cut a paper pattern to fit & trace it on the face of a tile. On a scrap piece of material, cut through the tile along the mark, remove paper backing & lay cut tile into place.Ĩ. Now mark the cutting line where they overlap with a pencil or knife. Place a second tile over the first & butt it against the wall. Cutting edge tiles (see diagram): Without removing paper backing, place a loose tile over the last tile in the row. Press tiles against sub-floor for good adhesion.ħ. Ensure tiles are positioned tight against each other. When you are satisfied with the layout, remove the paper backing from the tiles & place in position (with all the arrows on the backs pointing in the same direction). If edge gap will be less than 150mm, move starting point. Laying the tiles: Starting at the centre point, lay tiles to each end wall to establish width of gap at the wall (DO NOT remove paper backing at this stage). The room is now divided into four equal parts.Ħ. Find the centre of this chalk line & using a carpenter’s square or a tile, draw a second chalk line at right angles to the first line, reaching to the side walls. Find the centre points of the two end walls & snap a chalk line between them. Plan the layout: Treat the room as a rectangle, disregard alcoves, offsets etc. Any chips or defects in the concrete sub-floor should be patched using floor levelling compound prior to the installation of the tiles.ĥ. Concrete: Ensure that the concrete sub-floor is free of moisture, dirt, wax, grease or any other foreign material. If the timber sub-floor is tongue & grooved, an overlay of 4mm hardboard should be laid over the top. If the timber sub-floor is porous, such as chipboard, it is recommended that a sealing agent be applied to seal the floor prior to installation. Timber: The floor should be sanded to ensure that it is smooth & free of moisture, dirt, wax, grease or any other foreign material. Check the sub-floor: Your finished floor can only be as smooth as the sub-floor. The producers will not warrant that different dye lots will match each other.Ĥ. Tiles should be inspected for any dye lot variations. This will ensure that the tiles are acclimatized & will ensure proper adhesion. For 24 hours keep tiles in the area where the installation is the take place. Condition tiles first: For best results, remove tiles from the carton & separate into small piles. Tools required: Ruler or tape measure, straight edge & pencil or chalk line, trimming knife, paper for tracing, scissors, carpenter’s square.ģ. Purchase extra tiles to cover mistakes in trimming & for possible replacement of future damaged tiles.Ģ. Determine the number of 305mm x 305mm tiles required for each area. If there are alcoves or offsets, measure these separately. Quantity of tiles: Measure the length & width of the room. Please read all instructions carefully before commencing installation.ġ.
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